Climbing: Whanganui Bay

About 100km south of Wharepapa is Lake Taupo, a brilliant turquoise oasis lined in rocky peaks and sheer cliff-side. The peaks as they stand now are mere piles of dirt, broken remnants of a former solitary mountain that used line the horizon. The lake bed is actually a crater, a vestige of what is believed to be the largest volcanic eruption in Earth’s history. Unlike the rock at Wharepapa (which came from this volcano) the magma at the epicenter cooled slower, creating a denser, smoother rock than the ignimbrite you’ll find further north. Denser rock is more prone to fracture than crumbling, which creates cracks. And crack climbing is better than sporto pocket pulling. Clinical studies have proven this fact.

On the west side of the lake is Whanganui Bay, a piece of land owned by the Maori tribe Tuwharetoa. They were kind enough to let us climb on their land, which is a good thing, because there is an almost inexhaustible amount of climbing on the cliffs lining the waters edge. The views aren’t half bad either. A couple of pics from our visit there:

Bryce on his first climb of the day. He's laughing because 10 feet to the right I was cursing him after he had me warmup on a 5.12a, telling me it was 5.10b/c. Normally one would be able to tell such things, but after almost 100 climbs in 10 days I couldn't tell if the moves were hard or my arms and hands were just shot. It was probably a bit of both.

Steve on an arete climb.

Doug hanging out on Eternity Road (5.11b).

Tibia

Tibia is a two-pitch climb that goes up between a huge detached pillar and the main wall. It’s a striking line you can see from all the way up the road; it wasn’t more than a few seconds after tossing our packs down that Doug insists I have to climb it. “It’s a classic!”

Doug working up an arete that is much steeper than it looks. The second pitch of Tibia goes up behind the large pillar behind him.

I’m not sure which type of climbing I dislike more, chimneys or off-widths (a crack that is wider than your fist but narrower than a chimney), both can be equally nauseating. Literally. What happens when you put the two together? You get Tibia.

The first pitch is a 5.7 chimney, which is relatively easy, but the upper half of it is completely unprotected. “The climbing is pretty straightforward, it’s a good width so you can keep your legs in front of you and your back on the rear wall...” Bryce explained cheerfully before pulling a somber face “…but if you fall on the first pitch, you’ll die. Seriously.”. With a recommendation like that who wouldn’t be dying to give it a go. Pardon the pun.

I know it's a poor pic, but I had to put one in showing the chimney. Doug getting started on Pitch 1.

Before we even committed to climbing Tibia Doug made it clear that he refused to lead the second pitch - seems he hates off-widths more than I. As eager as I was to lead the death chimney, I had to be a good partner and give the first lead to Doug since I was taking the second. I’m just considerate like that.

I caught an air of mischief between Doug and Bryce, and having already been sandbagged by Bryce earlier that morning I was suspicious. I was following the first pitch, so that couldn’t be it… must be the off-width. I stocked up on gear just in case. Doug cruised the first pitch and soon I was following my way up into the damp, dark, endless looking chimney. I moved further into the depths to a small ledge when Doug called out “You to the ledge yet?”. “Yeah” my voice echoed back to wherever he was in the darkness above. “Look left!” I’m not sure what I was expecting to see, perhaps an elevator to the top. Instead, I see a human skeleton staring back at me not more than two feet away.


Ahhh, ‘Tibia’ – got it. Thanks Doug, I probably would have climbed right past it without noticing if you hadn’t said something. At least I had a rope above me, I couldn’t imagine climbing a run-out chimney knowing the last victim is still laying at the bottom.

The rest of climb was uneventful, and I got some payback watching Doug struggle up the off-width. I found I had far too much gear for the short off-width section, and the gear for such cracks are big and heavy, so I put them all in the crack for Doug to haul up the rest of the way and on the hike off.

Doug following up the second pitch off-width section. Note the copious amounts of gear.

The view from the top made it all worth it: